We decided to take a quick trip to the coast before Elena starts working on Wednesday. It is whale watching season, and we were ready for a bit warmer weather!  To get to Puerto Lopez we took a three hour furgoneta ride (also know as van from hell) to Guayaquil, then a bus (4 hours) to Puerto Lopez the next day through Jipijapa (love that name!).  We took the van because our research said it was faster than the bus through Cajas which we already knew stops about every 3 feet to take on new passengers.  But it turns out the improved speed is due mostly to lead foot drivers and constant dashing in and out to pass whatever is in front, never mind visibility or oncoming traffic.  Add to that the fact that you are dropping 13,000 feet and the road itself is full of hairpin turns, and you'll understand why we had to break out a plastic bag for one unfortunate rider on the way down. All to say we were very glad to arrive at the Hilton Colon where Doug's loyalty points scored us a lovely welcome of the chocolate variety, and access to the executive lodge. 

We took a regular bus to Puerto Lopez, and then a moto-taxi to the Hostal we stayed in.  Love the moto taxi: why use a car when a motorcycle does the trick? The hostal had beautiful grounds and a breakfast served overlooking the ocean.  The room itself was rather rustic, but scored points with the kids for the mosquito nets and bunk beds. 

The main reason we went to Puerto Lopez was to see whales off of Isla de la Plata, and to see the Frigate Birds and Blue Footed Boobies that nest there.  It was summer (dry season) on the island: you'll see the dormant trees in the pictures.  We were pretty impressed with our medium length hike and surviving the heat.  We were delighted to see the birds, and also sea turtles and whales: including a mom and baby, and some excellent views.  And we did a little snorkeling. It was an excellent day of wildlife viewing, and fun to be on the boat.

Our second full day at Puerto Lopez we took a community-based tour of Rio Blanco.  The local guides showed us many interesting plants including those that cure headache, joint aches, fever, gonorrhea, etc.  We saw some freshwater shrimp, howler monkeys, a Spectacled Owl and a a trogan (bird pix to be on the bird page soon).  The foliage was beautiful, and the forest was quite a contrast to Isla de la Planta: definitely wet and humid, with plants fully leafed out and covered with bromeliads. Core to the experience, though, was completing what turned out to be a 5 hour hike on extremely vertical and muddy paths. We all wore rubber boats and we needed them- by the end of the hike we were covered in mud to our knees.  At first it was exciting, then it became kind of a slog.  Lucia and Gabe did great, but we did put them on horses for most of the one hour return trip because it had been so intense. We devoured the meal that was waiting at the end of the hike as part of the tour: encebollado (a soup typical of the coast), fish, rice and potatoes with carrots and green beans.

We enjoyed talking with other tourists we met on the tours.  They were from the UK, Spain, Belgium, France, Germany and the US (although there are many fewer American than European tourists here).  The bus rides took us through rice and banana fields, and lots of little villages.  Vendors came on the bus selling everything from chicken meals to go, to coconut water (we're talking fresh, not bottled), fresh fruit and sweets.  A good adventure before we settle into a routine in Cuenca.