I’m a little sheepish about posting a Christmas- related post almost a month after the big day (or at least two weeks after, if you give us until Epiphany or 3 kings’ day). But this past Sunday we ran into yet another Christmas season procession (Pase del Niño), this one on the street in front of our house. It was no modest affair, involving several floats, many horses, elaborate costumes, strewn rose petals, and the ever present noise-making fireworks. I also just learned that the Pases go on until carnival, so I figure a Christmas post at the end of January isn’t too out of pace with Ecuadoran traditions.
In my post on Christmas preparations I noted that the main focus here is on the Baby Jesus (El Niño), and the main event the Pase Del Niño, in which the faithful accompany the baby Jesus in a procession that ends with a mass in a church. We got to witness two impressive events related to the Pase Del Niño and live nativity scenes.
El Niño Viajero
On December 23 my sister Karin and I went to the flower market for centerpieces for our Christmas dinner, and happened upon the Pase for THE baby Jesus of Cuenca el Niño Viajero. The figure is called the Niño Viajero because it has traveled to many countries and to Rome where it was blessed by the pope. This Pase is short, just a couple of blocks from a very old church, by the flower market, and to the Cathedral on the main square. The procession included a few priests and nuns, a whole police/military detail, a horse mounted guard, and a number of officials, as well as an elaborate canopy to protect the figure of the baby during the procession. A helicopter buzzed overhead after the speeches that opened the event. Karin and I, our brains trained by our US experiences, assumed it was a news crew covering the big event. But no, the helicopter was there to drop thousands of fresh rose petals on the path of the procession, sweetening it for the Niño Viajero. It was quite something to watch all those petals drift down and to smell their fragrance in the air.
In my post on Christmas preparations I noted that the main focus here is on the Baby Jesus (El Niño), and the main event the Pase Del Niño, in which the faithful accompany the baby Jesus in a procession that ends with a mass in a church. We got to witness two impressive events related to the Pase Del Niño and live nativity scenes.
El Niño Viajero
On December 23 my sister Karin and I went to the flower market for centerpieces for our Christmas dinner, and happened upon the Pase for THE baby Jesus of Cuenca el Niño Viajero. The figure is called the Niño Viajero because it has traveled to many countries and to Rome where it was blessed by the pope. This Pase is short, just a couple of blocks from a very old church, by the flower market, and to the Cathedral on the main square. The procession included a few priests and nuns, a whole police/military detail, a horse mounted guard, and a number of officials, as well as an elaborate canopy to protect the figure of the baby during the procession. A helicopter buzzed overhead after the speeches that opened the event. Karin and I, our brains trained by our US experiences, assumed it was a news crew covering the big event. But no, the helicopter was there to drop thousands of fresh rose petals on the path of the procession, sweetening it for the Niño Viajero. It was quite something to watch all those petals drift down and to smell their fragrance in the air.
Live Nativity
Our church in Arvada has had a live nativity the last few years, and so it was fun to learn that Cuenca has live nativities also. Various communities participated in a live nativity contest on the central square, and we saw some really creative live nativities, one of which featured recycled materials in the costumes. Note in particular the use of recycled CDs as beautiful shiny objects in many of the nativity scenes and Christmas displays.
Our church in Arvada has had a live nativity the last few years, and so it was fun to learn that Cuenca has live nativities also. Various communities participated in a live nativity contest on the central square, and we saw some really creative live nativities, one of which featured recycled materials in the costumes. Note in particular the use of recycled CDs as beautiful shiny objects in many of the nativity scenes and Christmas displays.
El Pase del Niño de Cuenca
On December 24 we watched part of the 5-hour procession in which many families and organizations participate to accompany various baby Jesus’. As you can see from the pictures, it was a pretty impressive event. Children dress up as shepherds and other biblical characters, girls wear long gowns that trail over the horses they are riding, floats display biblical scenes, meals featuring Cuy and other local delicacies, and participants are draped with abundant food and treasures. The other Pases del Niño we’ve seen have had similar participants and themes, but on a smaller scale.
On December 24 we watched part of the 5-hour procession in which many families and organizations participate to accompany various baby Jesus’. As you can see from the pictures, it was a pretty impressive event. Children dress up as shepherds and other biblical characters, girls wear long gowns that trail over the horses they are riding, floats display biblical scenes, meals featuring Cuy and other local delicacies, and participants are draped with abundant food and treasures. The other Pases del Niño we’ve seen have had similar participants and themes, but on a smaller scale.
Nothing like Family
The highlight of Christmas for the Faulkners was having the Gallups celebrate with us. The tradition in Cuenca is to have a turkey dinner at midnight on Christmas Eve, and open presents that night. But we opted for US traditions, in particular notes and treats left out for Santa in hopes that he would stop in Ecuador given that he seems to appear here only in certain households. (He did find us). And we opted for ham and tamales on Christmas Day as our celebratory meal, items we sometimes have at home. The tamales here are quite different than those we get in the US, though. They have a variety of vegetables inside as well as chicken or pork, hardboiled egg and a fig, are wrapped in savory leaves, and are served with Aji pepper sauce. We also bought an array of traditional sweets for dessert which made for a great picture, but otherwise were kind of a bust. Thank goodness the Gallups had brought some peppermint bark with them. The non-traditional parts of our Christmas day were a quick trip to some nearby hot springs for an enjoyable soak, and then packing for travels that began the morning of the 26th (teaser for future posts!).
The highlight of Christmas for the Faulkners was having the Gallups celebrate with us. The tradition in Cuenca is to have a turkey dinner at midnight on Christmas Eve, and open presents that night. But we opted for US traditions, in particular notes and treats left out for Santa in hopes that he would stop in Ecuador given that he seems to appear here only in certain households. (He did find us). And we opted for ham and tamales on Christmas Day as our celebratory meal, items we sometimes have at home. The tamales here are quite different than those we get in the US, though. They have a variety of vegetables inside as well as chicken or pork, hardboiled egg and a fig, are wrapped in savory leaves, and are served with Aji pepper sauce. We also bought an array of traditional sweets for dessert which made for a great picture, but otherwise were kind of a bust. Thank goodness the Gallups had brought some peppermint bark with them. The non-traditional parts of our Christmas day were a quick trip to some nearby hot springs for an enjoyable soak, and then packing for travels that began the morning of the 26th (teaser for future posts!).