We had planned to spend several days at an ecolodge in the Amazon, but had a last minute change in plans that meant a day-long trip back to the highlands and our newly selected destination, Lago Quilatoa. A road delay allowed for a nice break.
Lake Quilatoa
Lake Quilatoa always makes the top t en list of destinations in Ecuador. Doug and I had visited there on our first trip to Ecuador, and so had Karin. Yet the three of us were more than happy to go back and eager to share the experience with John and the kids. Lake Quilatoa is a crater lake and in order to reach it one must circle around and climb up the base of the volcano that contains it. As a result the lake and the various towns around the base of the volcano are quite isolated. Once one gets to the volcano it takes a good hour and a half along a slow, winding road to reach the town of Quilatoa on the crater’s edge at 3,914 meters (12,800 feet). Other towns around the volcano are even more isolated, reached by smaller roads and infrequent bus service.
We enjoyed a spectacular walk down to the lake the day after our arrival. The lake alternates from deep blue to turquoise green, and is most brilliant in bright sunlight. We had an overcast day but the walk down to the lake and the scenery of the surrounding landscape were spectacular nonetheless. There are horses available for the ride back up to the crater rim. Even though we live at high altitude in Cuenca (about 8,300 feet), the altitude at Quilatoa did me in. I had scoffed at first at the idea of skipping the hike back up, but in the short uphill trek from the lake shore to where the horses are tethered I changed my mind. Afterall, shouldn’t we make sure the kids had adults around when they got to the top? Poor Lucia who loves horses but always seems to end up on a donkey, got a donkey again on this adventure. I should mention that Doug did hike back up and made it in about an hour, making feel a bit wimpy!
Lake Quilatoa always makes the top t en list of destinations in Ecuador. Doug and I had visited there on our first trip to Ecuador, and so had Karin. Yet the three of us were more than happy to go back and eager to share the experience with John and the kids. Lake Quilatoa is a crater lake and in order to reach it one must circle around and climb up the base of the volcano that contains it. As a result the lake and the various towns around the base of the volcano are quite isolated. Once one gets to the volcano it takes a good hour and a half along a slow, winding road to reach the town of Quilatoa on the crater’s edge at 3,914 meters (12,800 feet). Other towns around the volcano are even more isolated, reached by smaller roads and infrequent bus service.
We enjoyed a spectacular walk down to the lake the day after our arrival. The lake alternates from deep blue to turquoise green, and is most brilliant in bright sunlight. We had an overcast day but the walk down to the lake and the scenery of the surrounding landscape were spectacular nonetheless. There are horses available for the ride back up to the crater rim. Even though we live at high altitude in Cuenca (about 8,300 feet), the altitude at Quilatoa did me in. I had scoffed at first at the idea of skipping the hike back up, but in the short uphill trek from the lake shore to where the horses are tethered I changed my mind. Afterall, shouldn’t we make sure the kids had adults around when they got to the top? Poor Lucia who loves horses but always seems to end up on a donkey, got a donkey again on this adventure. I should mention that Doug did hike back up and made it in about an hour, making feel a bit wimpy!
Quilatoa Hostal and Town
Because we had traveled all day, we reached Quilatoa late in the evening, having done most of the winding and climbing to the town in the dark. We arrived exhausted, cold, and hungry. We had reserved rooms at the Hosteria Alpaca Quilatoa (http://www.alpacaquilotoa.com/) which offers dinner and breakfast each day. The family-style dishes of steaming potatoes, soup, stewed meat and veggies that were waiting for us felt extravagantly welcoming, as did the warmth of the wood burning stoves in the dining area. The hostel is run by a local family, and during the day various family members would stop by to help out or for other errands. One day a traveling doctor came to the lodge to conduct well child visit for the family’s infant and toddler. And on our first night, when Gabe had a terrible ear ache from the change in altitude we were offered a traditional remedy: alpaca wool, heated in the fire, and then put in the ear to create a vacuum. It seemed to work, as Gabe’s ear ache was gone by the morning.
The town of Quilatoa has a number of rustic hostels, but doesn’t feel like a tourist trap. We had tasty food, bought some local handicrafts, and enjoyed some leisurely walks through the town and, a few of us, part way along the rim of the volcano. It was equally delightful to hang out in the dining area of the hostel talking to other travelers, journaling, and playing cards. We were thrilled to find out that the hostel offers laundry service. We had been trying to wash a few things for days, but had been foiled by our travel schedule and the lack of facilities. Our hosts assured us that while they had no washer and the clothes would be hand washed, they did have a dryer and our clothes would be done by the morning of our departure. Imagine our surprise when, walking back from an evening stroll to look down at the lake, we found our clothes spread out on the trees and lawn in front of the hostel, soaking wet. They were, however, dry by the next day- thank goodness.
Because we had traveled all day, we reached Quilatoa late in the evening, having done most of the winding and climbing to the town in the dark. We arrived exhausted, cold, and hungry. We had reserved rooms at the Hosteria Alpaca Quilatoa (http://www.alpacaquilotoa.com/) which offers dinner and breakfast each day. The family-style dishes of steaming potatoes, soup, stewed meat and veggies that were waiting for us felt extravagantly welcoming, as did the warmth of the wood burning stoves in the dining area. The hostel is run by a local family, and during the day various family members would stop by to help out or for other errands. One day a traveling doctor came to the lodge to conduct well child visit for the family’s infant and toddler. And on our first night, when Gabe had a terrible ear ache from the change in altitude we were offered a traditional remedy: alpaca wool, heated in the fire, and then put in the ear to create a vacuum. It seemed to work, as Gabe’s ear ache was gone by the morning.
The town of Quilatoa has a number of rustic hostels, but doesn’t feel like a tourist trap. We had tasty food, bought some local handicrafts, and enjoyed some leisurely walks through the town and, a few of us, part way along the rim of the volcano. It was equally delightful to hang out in the dining area of the hostel talking to other travelers, journaling, and playing cards. We were thrilled to find out that the hostel offers laundry service. We had been trying to wash a few things for days, but had been foiled by our travel schedule and the lack of facilities. Our hosts assured us that while they had no washer and the clothes would be hand washed, they did have a dryer and our clothes would be done by the morning of our departure. Imagine our surprise when, walking back from an evening stroll to look down at the lake, we found our clothes spread out on the trees and lawn in front of the hostel, soaking wet. They were, however, dry by the next day- thank goodness.
Zero Latitude
From Quilatoa we headed north to another popular tourist destination, Otavalo. Along the way we stopped at one several sites that mark the location of the Equator. Doug and I had visited the “Mitad del Mundo/ Middle of the World” outside of Quito, which has a painted yellow line marking the equator, and some rather dubious displays to prove it is on the equator. In fact, it is a few yards off. But it is a fun place to visit. This time we stopped at the Quitsato monument, located on the Equatorial Line (0 Latitude). This is a more recent monument, linked to research on the relationship between the equator and many of the pre-Colombian religious sites throughout Ecuador. While many countries lie along the equator, Ecuador is one of the few that has mountain peaks. Indigenous cultures in Ecuador used those peaks to map the movement of the moon and sun, and many cultural sites were built based on their location along, or relative to, the equator. The Inca, and later the Spanish, built their own ceremonial sites and churches on top of those sites. Another interesting project related to the monument is an effort to promote a world map oriented not along north-south lines, but in relationship to the equator. (www.quitsato.org). Karin and I were intrigued by the site, and walked away with their full set of information, I think both vaguely hoping it will be fodder for a future science fair project or two.
From Quilatoa we headed north to another popular tourist destination, Otavalo. Along the way we stopped at one several sites that mark the location of the Equator. Doug and I had visited the “Mitad del Mundo/ Middle of the World” outside of Quito, which has a painted yellow line marking the equator, and some rather dubious displays to prove it is on the equator. In fact, it is a few yards off. But it is a fun place to visit. This time we stopped at the Quitsato monument, located on the Equatorial Line (0 Latitude). This is a more recent monument, linked to research on the relationship between the equator and many of the pre-Colombian religious sites throughout Ecuador. While many countries lie along the equator, Ecuador is one of the few that has mountain peaks. Indigenous cultures in Ecuador used those peaks to map the movement of the moon and sun, and many cultural sites were built based on their location along, or relative to, the equator. The Inca, and later the Spanish, built their own ceremonial sites and churches on top of those sites. Another interesting project related to the monument is an effort to promote a world map oriented not along north-south lines, but in relationship to the equator. (www.quitsato.org). Karin and I were intrigued by the site, and walked away with their full set of information, I think both vaguely hoping it will be fodder for a future science fair project or two.
Otavalo Countryside
The last leg of our family trip was spent in Otavalo. Otavalo is one of the few areas in Ecuador where the indigenous residents are in control of local politics and commerce. Otavalenses are known for the weaving, and for their business acumen. Many residents proudly wear traditional dress, or a mix of traditional and western wear. I talked about our New Year’s Eve experience there a past post (see Febraury post on this page), so I'll continue where that post ended. Once we had properly said goodbye to 2014, we retreated to a lovely hostel (lalaunaecuador.com) in the mountains outside of Otavalo. The hostel has a big open field and, to the kids’ delight, a horse in the pasture, as well as a view of the nearby Fuya Fuya and Imbabura volcanoes. We enjoyed decent bird watching, good food and wine, a cozy fireplace, hammocks, and the view. Doug and I had a lovely hike to a nearby lake, Mojanda. While Otavalo is most famous for its weekend animal and craft markets, I think the countryside itself is worth the visit by itself. I’d go back at the drop of a hat.
The last leg of our family trip was spent in Otavalo. Otavalo is one of the few areas in Ecuador where the indigenous residents are in control of local politics and commerce. Otavalenses are known for the weaving, and for their business acumen. Many residents proudly wear traditional dress, or a mix of traditional and western wear. I talked about our New Year’s Eve experience there a past post (see Febraury post on this page), so I'll continue where that post ended. Once we had properly said goodbye to 2014, we retreated to a lovely hostel (lalaunaecuador.com) in the mountains outside of Otavalo. The hostel has a big open field and, to the kids’ delight, a horse in the pasture, as well as a view of the nearby Fuya Fuya and Imbabura volcanoes. We enjoyed decent bird watching, good food and wine, a cozy fireplace, hammocks, and the view. Doug and I had a lovely hike to a nearby lake, Mojanda. While Otavalo is most famous for its weekend animal and craft markets, I think the countryside itself is worth the visit by itself. I’d go back at the drop of a hat.
The Animal and Artisan Markets
Of course we also made a point to visit the markets. At the animal market we enjoyed watching people bartering for animals, and walking away with a sack full of chickens or Guinea pigs, or a pig strapped to their back. I was a little surprised at how expensive guinea pigs are ($8 for one that still needs to be raised: $12 for a mature one). They are a popular delicacy, but a relatively expensive one. Also on offer were cows, pigs, chicks, geese, you name it. And there were a few kittens and puppies for sale too. The kids were all relieved when a particularly endearing pup went home with an apparently loving family.
The craft market is large, taking up a full square and spilling onto neighboring streets. In addition to woven alpaca items one can find jewelry, t-shirts, clay whistles, dolls, etc. I get a little overwhelmed in that kind of setting, but the kids enjoyed using their spending money, and the Gallups found some nice souvenirs.
Of course we also made a point to visit the markets. At the animal market we enjoyed watching people bartering for animals, and walking away with a sack full of chickens or Guinea pigs, or a pig strapped to their back. I was a little surprised at how expensive guinea pigs are ($8 for one that still needs to be raised: $12 for a mature one). They are a popular delicacy, but a relatively expensive one. Also on offer were cows, pigs, chicks, geese, you name it. And there were a few kittens and puppies for sale too. The kids were all relieved when a particularly endearing pup went home with an apparently loving family.
The craft market is large, taking up a full square and spilling onto neighboring streets. In addition to woven alpaca items one can find jewelry, t-shirts, clay whistles, dolls, etc. I get a little overwhelmed in that kind of setting, but the kids enjoyed using their spending money, and the Gallups found some nice souvenirs.
After a morning at the markets we said a sad goodbye to the Gallups, who stayed in Otavalo a couple more nights, and headed back to Cuenca. There is something incredibly special about traveling and exploring with those we love. Even if the details of the experience fade away over time, I hope the memory of our Ecuador road trip will hold a special place in all of our hearts and memories for a long time. I know it will in mine.