It is an odd thing to celebrate a major holiday in a new cultural context. I’ve spent Christmas outside of the US before but that was before kids and without my own real living space, so I was content to observe and participate in others’ celebrations… I didn’t have to figure out how to celebrate as a family. This year we get the fun of learning about Cuencan and Ecuadoran traditions, and the challenge of figuring out how to make it “feel” like Christmas without the weather and trimmings that we usually enjoy.
At home it “feels” like Christmas when the weather turns cold, the lights and trees are up, and we’ve pulled out our favorite decorations, advent calendars, Christmas books and music. Here in Cuenca the weather is pretty constant, so that cue is missing. And while Ecuadorans do put up Christmas trees, nativity scenes, and some lights inside their houses, they don’t drape blinking lights on every building (refreshing!), so the overall “feel” is different. Live Christmas trees aren’t really available here, and the artificial ones are expensive. And we don’t want to acquire a bunch of Christmas items that we would have to get rid of when we leave. So for inside the house we’ve come up with: a small nativity set I bought during the Fiestas of Cuenca; an advent calendar made out of toilet paper tubes, paint and tissue paper; paper ornaments made by the kids (still in process!); and a string of icicle lights made in, where else, China, that I splurged on ($7). We are planning to fashion a tree out of several large branches we found by the river, and we have a candle we’re using to mark the Sundays of Advent. What will really make it feel like Christmas is having the Gallups here to celebrate with – we can’t wait for that! Overall, I’m liking the minimalist approach, and the kids don’t seem to mind. They are signed up for a Christmas cookie baking class at a local bakery next Friday. I’m hoping Lucia will find some alternatives to the peppermint bark that she so wants to make…. And for which we cannot find peppermint candies!
Meanwhile in Cuenca the main preparations involve the Nativity Scenes, Baby Jesus, and Christmas Baskets.
Nativity Scenes: As in much of the Latin world, Ecuadorans have the tradition of putting up elaborate nativity scenes that represent not only the manger scene, but the whole family, village, etc. Many people have nativity scenes in their homes, and they personalize them to include their own family members or area. Businesses, institutions and markets also put up scenes. I’ve included some pictures of a big scene that is in the center of one of the main markets in Cuenca, right between the meat stands and the vegetable section, and another that is in an outdoor plaza. The big metallic scene seems very minimalist by comparison, but it lights up at night so I’m sure is quite impressive. Market stands sell little houses and figures that can be included in the scenes, some locally crafted and lovely and others imported and plastic. The scenes include depictions of traditional celebrations. You can even buy little ceramic roasted pigs and Cuyes, traditional dishes, to include in the scene. Here in Cuenca the scenes center around the elaborately dressed Christ Child, often seated in a chair.
At home it “feels” like Christmas when the weather turns cold, the lights and trees are up, and we’ve pulled out our favorite decorations, advent calendars, Christmas books and music. Here in Cuenca the weather is pretty constant, so that cue is missing. And while Ecuadorans do put up Christmas trees, nativity scenes, and some lights inside their houses, they don’t drape blinking lights on every building (refreshing!), so the overall “feel” is different. Live Christmas trees aren’t really available here, and the artificial ones are expensive. And we don’t want to acquire a bunch of Christmas items that we would have to get rid of when we leave. So for inside the house we’ve come up with: a small nativity set I bought during the Fiestas of Cuenca; an advent calendar made out of toilet paper tubes, paint and tissue paper; paper ornaments made by the kids (still in process!); and a string of icicle lights made in, where else, China, that I splurged on ($7). We are planning to fashion a tree out of several large branches we found by the river, and we have a candle we’re using to mark the Sundays of Advent. What will really make it feel like Christmas is having the Gallups here to celebrate with – we can’t wait for that! Overall, I’m liking the minimalist approach, and the kids don’t seem to mind. They are signed up for a Christmas cookie baking class at a local bakery next Friday. I’m hoping Lucia will find some alternatives to the peppermint bark that she so wants to make…. And for which we cannot find peppermint candies!
Meanwhile in Cuenca the main preparations involve the Nativity Scenes, Baby Jesus, and Christmas Baskets.
Nativity Scenes: As in much of the Latin world, Ecuadorans have the tradition of putting up elaborate nativity scenes that represent not only the manger scene, but the whole family, village, etc. Many people have nativity scenes in their homes, and they personalize them to include their own family members or area. Businesses, institutions and markets also put up scenes. I’ve included some pictures of a big scene that is in the center of one of the main markets in Cuenca, right between the meat stands and the vegetable section, and another that is in an outdoor plaza. The big metallic scene seems very minimalist by comparison, but it lights up at night so I’m sure is quite impressive. Market stands sell little houses and figures that can be included in the scenes, some locally crafted and lovely and others imported and plastic. The scenes include depictions of traditional celebrations. You can even buy little ceramic roasted pigs and Cuyes, traditional dishes, to include in the scene. Here in Cuenca the scenes center around the elaborately dressed Christ Child, often seated in a chair.
The Baby Jesus: Ecuador is a primarily Catholic country, and there is a very active devotion to the Christ Child. There are a number of shops where one can buy figures of the baby Jesus (carved wood or ceramic), and elaborate gowns and shoes for him to wear. This week tents have popped up in several squares where one can buy the baby and related adornments. (I was briefly tempted but wasn’t sure what we’d do in the US with a decked out baby Jesus, and I wasn’t willing to shell out $60-$100 for the whole deal). Throughout Advent there are veladas, devotions for the Baby Jesus, held in churches, followed the next day by a procession led by the baby Jesus. One of the biggest processions takes place in Cuenca on Christmas Eve and is called El Pase del Niño Viajero. All children are invited to join the parade, wearing traditional dress, angel’s wings, and other costumes. The figure of the baby Jesus that leads the procession was commissioned in 1823. It has traveled to various holy sites in the world, and been blessed by Pope John XXIII, thus the name Niño Viajero -Traveling Child.
Baskets and Candy: It is a tradition in Cuenca for businesses/employers to give Christmas Baskets of food stuffs - Canastas Navideñas - to employees. I think the baskets are also sometimes exchanged among friends. In the past the baskets were assembled by hand and the baskets were woven baskets made near Cuenca. It seems now there is a trend toward pre-assembled “baskets” in cardboard.
While families get baskets, kids get – what else- Candy! It is traditional at holiday parties for kids to get a “fundita de golosinas” – a little bag of candy. The local grocery stores have put up big displays where you can hand pick what goes into candy bags. You can also buy jumbo sized bags of candy and/or animal crackers to make up your own smaller bags. I managed to avoid being part of the PTA-like committee that organizes the parties for each of the grades at school, but there was plenty of discussion about the bags of candy, so it will be interesting to see what the kids come home with.
While families get baskets, kids get – what else- Candy! It is traditional at holiday parties for kids to get a “fundita de golosinas” – a little bag of candy. The local grocery stores have put up big displays where you can hand pick what goes into candy bags. You can also buy jumbo sized bags of candy and/or animal crackers to make up your own smaller bags. I managed to avoid being part of the PTA-like committee that organizes the parties for each of the grades at school, but there was plenty of discussion about the bags of candy, so it will be interesting to see what the kids come home with.
We’re excited to experience Christmas in Cuenca, and will share what it is like in a future post. In the mean time, Feliz Navidad!